Vernix
- Holly A. Tompkins
- Aug 17
- 4 min read
A little Mediaeval odorous resin chat now that CAYUGA is (again) in the water and operating, so far, wonderfully, knock on varnished wood.

From an earlier post titled “I Love Vanishing” on October 26, 2021, I'm back at it, learning, fussing, cussing, and finding my Zen moments in applying perfect (well almost) varnish. A bit about that Zen stuff, based on the wisdom of Pooh of course, one could say our attachment to CAYUGA has led to suffering, oh so true. However, in practicing concentration on my technique I aim to achieve a varnishing Nirvana and be liberated from my bitterness towards fussy brushes, taping, drips, sandpaper, and a chemistry set of thinners and solvents.
More correctly, I'm seeking harmony with varnish, because the more I force it the worse it is, instead I am learning to appreciate it, go with it, and find the happiness and even humor ending with total serenity with varnish. The Tao of Pooh - it's on the shelf in our library, perhaps I should read it. Holly wrote this part because she knows me all too well.
Anyway, it's no joke for the routine maintenance of a late classic with lots of brightwork that needs constant attention. With the hot summer sun shining down on the ole (I love saying that word) gal all day long, the varnish takes a beating. But from observation, two things have changed with boats over the past several years. To paraphrase Fletch, it’s all outboards nowadays. And no brightwork. We are bucking the trend with CAYUGA’s twin gas inboards and ubiquitous resin-coasted teak.
My "what's bugging Brad" gripe is that if you think it's easy to find anyone who will show up as promised and do your brightwork for a reasonable cost today, well, fuhgeddaboudit. So, you are best served learning how to varnish and love it. In order to return to my deep Zen, I have hired an instructor who comes with an extensive background in yacht joinery and is way more expert than I am, truly an artist. He has been giving me some excellent tips while I work alongside him.
Let's start with how many varnish layers I would prefer to have on at the beginning of the season, at least 7. Why? Based on many discussions with many fellow varnishing novices and experts, the conclusion is the sun burns off about 1 layer a month. If we are in the water in late April/early May through November, we're burning off a lot of what we put on - a never-ending cycle.

So, let's get started with the routine and all that is the world of varnish. Holly recently painted the kitchen and for fun I picked this color for the temporary backsplash. She really likes Frogtape, perfect lines, and no bleeds. However, for each type of project... there's the right tape, and the particular tape Holly used is not appropriate for varnish work. I picked up 3M Precision masking tape, made for marine applications. If you check out the enormous number of tapes to choose from, well, don't, it will make your head spin. Taping straight lines, or around curves takes some practice but mostly patience.

On to the sandpaper. The smaller the number the bigger the grit, not unlike wire gauge where the smaller the number the bigger the wire. Thus, you would start sanding with 180-220 grit, specifically in my case on already varnished wood. When getting to the last layer, you should use 320-400 grit, which is in the extra to super fine category. And always clean the sanding residue with a damp cloth or cloth dampened with a little bit of thinner.

As for brushes, the standard consensus is badger. I use Redtree brushes (you can see me using it in the other post). Although I've used foam brushes and suppose there is still value in them for some applications. Otherwise, caring for the badger brush is as much an art as applying the varnish. I've learned to clean with mineral spirits - dipping for a first round, then wiping off and dipping a second time and now it's clean. Holly notes that foam might be a contributor or perfect vehicle for air bubbles which can cause the applied varnish to look and feel bumpy.
Let's talk chemistry sets regarding solvents and the actual varnish itself. In the post I referred to at the beginning, I've evolved from Captain's to Flagship High Build varnish (both are Petit products). But the expert I've got helping me, likes Epifanes. Both are excellent, but everyone has an opinion on which to use, and I think more experts use Epifanes, though I'm not done with my survey, it is ongoing... One important aspect is to have the varnish at the right consistency - of this I have no mastery whatsoever. I confounds me. Flagship says right on the label that thinning is not usually required. It also says, right on the label, do not shake container - it's the very first thing stated. So contrary to James Bond’s famous line... varnish should be "stirred, not shaken."
Captain's too says thinning is not normally required, and goes on to say, just as does Flagship, "although on warm days use thinner at 5-10% by volume to ease brushing and maintain good flow and leveling". Help me, somebody, is thinning varnish an art or science, I have yet to get it right in practice.

This one is a “damn it,” why did that happen? Two spots are rippled. And, when I attempted to sand the ripples out, the sandpaper dragged and got clogged up, as if the varnish did not, and will not, fully dry. I ask myself why? Like every good student, I learned what I did wrong. I must have patience, 24 hours before the next coat can be put on or you get this. I wet sanded to remove the ripples.
I've determined that varnishing is like golfing, few ever master it, like the saying goes, "no one wins at golf". And the wisdom of Bob Hope, "If you watch a game, it's fun. If you play at it, it's recreation. If you work at it, it's golf". I don't do golf, but I do work at varnish. Holly on the other hand, enjoys golf and ain't half bad, perhaps she would be really good at varnish.
In the end, as always... I love yachting, every last sticky, ripple-y, drippy, bubbly bit of it.



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